A hidden gem in the Southern Smokies
I first came to ride the Cherohala Skyway a few years after it opened, in 1998 or ’99. I rode up with a group of CMA friends from the Atlanta area, and we spent a day riding the parkway from Robbinsville NC to Tellico Plains TN. After a hearty late lunch at the popular Tellicafé on the western end of the skyway, the group turned around and rode back across that afternoon. It was early October as I remember, and the mountains were awash in the colors of autumn- gold, orange, red, purple, with pine evergreen interspersed.
It was magical. I was hooked.
Out front, on one of the many times I’ve ridden the Cherohala.
I’ve returned so often to this epic road in the years since, that I’ve honestly lost count how many times I’ve ridden the Cherohala. And it never gets old with me. Our recent trip to Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge afforded Phil, Mike and me the opportunity to ride it yet again. It was the last weekend in March, and spring had not yet bloomed at the higher elevations. The hardwoods were still bare, which meant the views while riding, though still stark from winter, were spectacular, uninhibited, and long.
I remembered once again why I love this road so much.
Phil, Mike, and Rob at Santeetlah Gap, the terminus on the North Carolina side. We left our “mark” there, as Phil is pointing out.
Long, wide sweepers, across the tops of the mountains, on the left faces then the right, breathtaking vistas all around, force one to balance between diving deep into the endless curves and throttling out, and slowing pace to take in the views. As I’ve stated before, there’s something magical, mythic, about the ancient Appalachians. The Cherohala Skyway calls forth that vibe when riding it, like no other road I know out here. A slice of Heaven on earth, weaving across the mountaintops.
My view from the cockpit, on the NC side. Spring had not yet come to the higher elevations.
The idea for this parkway was first conceived by a man named Sam Williams, in 1958. Having grown up on such great old western series as Gunsmoke and Wagon Train, Williams had the idea to lead a memorial wagon train from his home in Tellico Plains, TN across the Unaka Range into Murphy, NC. After pitching the idea to his local Kiwanis Club, a plan was born for a yearly “Wagon Train Road” excursion, in honor of the westward bound settlers of the early 1800s. Six weeks later, 67 covered wagons and over 300 horseback riders gathered at the Tennessee/North Carolina state line for their first commemorative trip. This gave birth to the plan for a highway connecting the two towns across the state lines. The route to Murphy was ultimately undoable, yet shifting the North Carolina destination to Robbinsville was found to be much more feasible, as the route could navigate entirely across federal lands.
Mike captured this cool drone shot at the Santeetlah overlook, the high point on the Skyway.
By late 1962, Congress approved funding for the byway, and construction began. Rather than merely building a highway for commercial traffic, it was decided that the route should join the growing network of National Scenic Byways. Over 34 years and $100 million later, the highway was completed in 1996, and dubbed the Cherohala Skyway. The route navigates through the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests, so the contraction “Cherohala” was invented.
And a truly epic road was opened.
Epic views from the cockpit again, this time on the Tennessee side.
The Cherohala is absolutely spectacular to ride. The route winds up to 5400 feet in elevation across the mountaintops, with just over 18 miles on the North Carolina side and 23 miles on the Tennessee side. Long sweeping corners, incredible views, near perfect tarmac, and zero commercial traffic, make this road the ideal way to spend a day riding. There are dozens of beautiful turnouts, miles of hiking trails, side roads that lead off to campgrounds, waterfalls and forestry roads, and wildlife in abundance. I’ve seen herds of deer, wild boar, coyotes and foxes, and even a mother bear with two cubs crossing the road once. Another reason to take this ride at a measured pace.
The Skyway has its own patrol now, on both the NC and TN sides. Don’t try to outrun them.
The Skyway consistently ranks among the top 10 motorcycle rides in North America, from Discovery Channel to many national travel guides. And for good reason. Regionally, it’s often called “motorcycling’s best kept secret.” U.S. Forest Service estimates the byway averages about 50 automobiles and 100 motorcycles a day riding its curves. That’s quite a contrast to the nearby Hwy. 129 section known as the “Tail of the Dragon”, which can see those averages every hour on weekends and peak riding days. Not only is there no commercial traffic allowed on the route, there is no commercialization anywhere on the parkway, as in no gas stops, no convenience stores, and no gift shops. So plan accordingly. Oh, and the Skyway is patrolled now, another aspect to consider. Mind your road manners up here.
One of the many scenic turnouts on the Skyway, this one on the TN side.
I love this road, everything about it. The breathtaking views, delightful wide sweepers, the mild sensations of temperature changes while ascending and descending in elevation, and just the serenity of this region, devoid of development. My thoughts untangle, my heart rate relaxes, I breathe deeply, and I savor every mile of this ride. It’s therapeutic to me, even spiritual. I feel the nearness and presence of God up here. That’s how much this byway deeply moves me. I’m forever connected to this “highway in the sky”, having ridden its pavement nearly since it’s opening. And I will keep coming back, for as long as I’m able.
Rob
*Top featured photo by Cherohala.com
For more on the Cherohala Skyway, give these links a look:
https://fhwaapps.fhwa.dot.gov/bywaysp/StateMaps/Show/byway/2282
We like to stay here when we’re in the area:
*Check out our ride on the Cherohala, without ever leaving this page:
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