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Riding with the Ghost of John Wayne

I saw the nearly life-size cardboard cutouts everywhere- restaurants, saloons, souvenir shops, even gas stations. Wherever I wandered through “John Wayne country,” a place of sprawling red deserts, towering buttes and mesas and bone-dry ancient seabeds. It’s harsh and inhospitable to most creatures that don’t have scales or stingers, but there he was, ready to draw. Saddle up, pilgrim, it’s going to be a hot, dusty, spectacular ride.

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