A home away from home in the southern Smokies
4 1/2 years. That’s how long it’s been since the last time I rolled in and set foot on the grounds of Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge in Stecoah, North Carolina. Had it really been that long? My memories of our last trip here in many respects feel like yesterday. Phil, Ted, my friend Lyle, and myself, all enjoying one of the most beautiful, colorful autumns in recent memory, up in the mountains of western North Carolina. We stayed in one of Iron Horse’s creekside cabins, waking to the gentle burbling stream every morning. Delightful meals, even more delightful people, nightly campfires, and exceptional hospitality by owner Jerry Goss and his staff. We even rode a trio of Yamaha Nikens, those mechanical silverback gorillas, across the famed Tail of the Dragon, along the Cherohala Skyway, and a stint on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Iron Horse owns and operates Wolf Creek Rentals, just down the street from the lodge. More on that shortly.
I remember it all as if it were yesterday. And yet it’s been almost five years. Too many years.
Our view across the creek, back in 2020. Beautiful.
So when Jerry and company invited us up for a “soft opening weekend“ at Iron Horse the end of March, we jumped at the chance. Phil accompanied me again, and this time we brought our friend Mike Boyd, another of Road Dirt’s frequent contributors and an accomplished drone pilot. Spring had not yet graced the upper elevations of the mountains, but it felt like home, rolling down the driveway into the little valley Iron Horse is nestled in. It felt good to be back.
Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge first opened its doors in 2003. I first came here in 2005, on a solo road trip up in the mountains. I remember several of the buildings still under construction, and nothing developed or built up the hill yet. I stayed in a bunkhouse behind the main building, across the creek. It was during the middle of the week, and I had the bunkhouse to myself. Even then there was a simplicity, a southern charm to the place, in just their third season being open.
I fell in love with Iron Horse, and have come back numerous times in the years since.
Jerry Goss, owner of Iron Horse and Wolf Creek Rentals, is one of the kindest Southern gentlemen I know.
We first met Jerry Goss in October of 2020, our last time here. Jerry had recently bought the place, and was giving it much needed improvements, upgrades, and expansion. Being a “good ole Southern boy” himself, as well as an avid motorcycle rider, Jerry has only deepened the southern charm of this “haven in the hills”, while taking it to new levels of comfort and enjoyment. And he’s become a good friend as well.
On the quiet opening that the weekend was, there still were numerous patrons present, most of them friends and/or family of Jerry and his team. With RV camping, rustic tent camping along the creek, simple cabins with rocking chair porches, “glamping” outfitted conestoga wagons (I stayed in one, so cool), and large multi-room chalets up the hill, as well as that old bunkhouse I first stayed in 20 years ago, Iron Horse has accommodations to suit any budget and travel preference. And I should mention, covered parking for motorcycles.
I stayed in one of the conestoga wagons (r), while Phil & Mike stayed in the cabin directly across the creek, where the crew had stayed in 2020.
Iron Horse owns and operates Wolf Creek Rentals, just down the street about 3 miles. They no longer have a “troop” of those metallic gorilla-looking Nikens, but they still have one, as well as a nice assortment of bikes ranging from small displacement dual-sports, to sport bikes, Harleys, Hondas, Can-Am Spyders, and now 11 Polaris Slingshots. Pick your passion, and hit the hills.
Mike captured this cool drone shot of Phil and me, in front of the lodge, making ready for a day of riding the Cherohala.
With all the devastation from last year‘s hurricane experienced in much of western North Carolina, as well as recent wildfires in this part of the state, we were a bit apprehensive about whether this trip would happen, in the weeks leading up to our departure. Our concerns were unfounded, however, as the wildfires were hundreds of miles away from Stecoah and nearby Robbinsville, and the hurricane destruction had mainly happened further east, toward Asheville. Following the hurricane last October, Iron Horse lost an entire month of patronage, as much of western North Carolina was shut down due to a state of emergency having been declared for the area. We were happy to see the place as pristine and untouched as we had remembered it, nearly five years prior.
Jerry lives for this place. He told me, “When I retire from my day job, I’m moving in up here permanently. Iron Horse is my retirement plan.” Jerry wants to spend his retirement years here in the hills, drinking coffee in the mornings beside the stream, enjoying conversations with fellow riders staying at his place, and leading rides all over the tri-state area of NC, GA and TN. As Phil often quips, “Living the dream, baby.” Indeed he is. Come visit Jerry’s dream in the southern Appalachians.
For more on Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge & Campground, check them out here:
*Photos and video: Phil Gauthier, Rob Brooks
*Drone footage: Mike Boyd
Check out our video tour and review here:
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